Allah's Garden

Why are people so scared of silence? Why does every second have to be filled with idle monkey chit chat? Wadi Rum is amazing and there are very few places left in the world that are this vast and silent. At least when you spend most of your time in a city, time spent in places like Wadi Rum are a rare and precious gift. So why is it so hard for some folk to just be and enjoy the moment and nature at its grandest? That can be the question of the day. There's a great quote (though I can'y remember who wrote it) about the Sahara being Allah's Garden as it is the only place he can come to to get away from it all. I think the same could apply to this place.

Anyway……today was spent exploring this wonderful desert area. My early disappointment of not being able to ride a horse all day today (nothing like telling your guide days in advance and still not having anything organised!!) or a camel (a bit to expensive) was short lived (I think a dummy spit of about 2 minutes isn't bad at all!). It's just great to be here. Every corner turned introduces a new rock formation and colour. There are jebels (mountains) which seem covered in petrified waterfalls or that runny icing was poured over them and set as it dribbled over. Some have sharp and sheer cliff faces, some are soft and rounded whilst others are cut deep with gorges. We first walked from our "camp" to El Qattar to see a spring. It's always inspiring to see trees and plants thrive in such a harsh landscape. Where there is water, little micro ecosystems develop. As one in our group said, "Plants want to grow", and they really do here, forcing their way through the hardest of rock with no visible soil. Good thing to keep in mind when I start my veggie garden! Next it was a short drive over to Khazali (which means something along the lines of "Suicide Ali"). A bloke called Ali killed someone and the whole tribe wanted him dead. So he ran away up the mountain, as you do. They came after him so he jumped off the cliff. Miraculously he survived so obviously having God on his side, the tribe let him live and named the mountain after him. There is a great gorge in the mountain with 7th century (supposedly) rock carvings on the wall. There's also a very un-temporary looking bedouin tent selling souvenirs….and if you wait a while, jeep loads of Japanese tourists!!! To be fair, this was really the only spot we encountered more than a couple of people though, but last time we saw not a soul except maybe the odd shepherd. Lawrence's House was next. There just remains one wall but it's great to see where he lived and his view….which is nothing to complain about! He supposedly stayed here during the desert revolt. Next it was onto the obligatory sand dune climb. Only a couple of us did it. The sand was soooo scorching by this time. Makes you run up faster as your shoes fill up with sand and get slow cooked. Few things compare with the joy of running up and down (in huge, giant steps!) a dune. Small minds, perhaps?! :-) Next it was on to Anfashieh for some more rock art and then lunch at Siq Burrah. This was a lovely spot but if I knew we were going to be sitting there for over two hours, I would have taken my book! Hummus and tinned tuna for lunch along with sage tea. The locals think we're completely bonkers wanting them to make the tea with no sugar in it, especially when they have about 3-4 spoonfuls per cup themselves!

The afternoon saw us visit the rock arch at Burdah and then another at Um Fruth. The latter is climbable, though if I hadn't seen others clamber up the sheer face, I would have had my doubts. It was worth a go and I'm happy to report that both Norbert and I successfully made it there and back. Norbert is a bit stinky by now having been sprayed by the bus driver's aftershave yesterday, and today our driver Suliman decided to do the same with his special aftershave bought for him by his cousin from Saudi Arabia. I really do think Norbert will be having a wash tonight!!

The "Wilderness Zone" was next and I remember this section of mostly white sand well, having watched it all pass slowly by on the back of a horse last time. Back to the camp by about 17:00. Time to give Norbert a bath, have a shower and watch another magic sunset before dinner and bed. Tonight I was told I should sleep with my head at the other end of the mattress. Why? Well, it's always best to have your head facing Mecca in case you die in your sleep!

XXX