Your Correspondent In The Middle East

Well, the Middle East has thrown up another debacle. I guess there's always one just around the corner in these parts. I was planning on popping over to Israel but that will have to wait now. They could have at least planned their action a day earlier and saved me £20 on the Lonely Planet!! It will be interesting to see what happens with it all. The interest level over here is predictably high. You walk into any shop and ever single tv has the running news story on it, and we all know how well the media can excite people. Everyone's relaxed now but who knows. I mean, just tonight I had a car load of "hooligans" hang out the windows and yell, "Good morning to Jordan where you now are!!". That be fightin' talk if ever I heard it!

It was time to leave Aqaba this morning and head up the Dead Sea Highway all the way to Amman (it takes about 3hrs if you do it with purpose). Israel is just "there" all the way up, so close you could walk there, and it's frustrating that the problems over here just never find the right and full solution that's required. This stretch of land is The Rift Valley and the section just after Aqaba is the very arid Wadi Araba. Beyond that is a sight I think not dissimilar to the Nile. It's very fertile but only runs a couple of kms either side before the barren desert kicks in. Here you can find the likes of bananas and tomatoes growing (just between you and me, I'm almost tomato and cucumbered out at this stage!). Next we passed Lot's cave (where he hid having escaped the destruction of Sodom). I often wander how Lot made it into The Bible what with having hung out at Sodom and Gomorrah and then getting it on with his daughters. Weirdo. I guess having connections high up (he was the nephew of Abraham) helps. His two sons/grandsons (not sure what you'd call them!) Moab and Ben-Ammi fathered the two big tribes in the area, the Moabites and Ammonites. Although the two evil cities of Sodom and Gomorrah have never been found (they may have been swallowed up by seismic activity), the cave seems legit with Lot's name being mentioned on an inscription in the cave.

We passed some big money-earners for Jordan, being potash and magnesium oxide processing plants and by now The Dead Sea was back in sight. Did you know that you never get burnt in the Dead Sea area because the salt haze produces a barrier that blocks UV rays. The water was so blue and being a hot day it was tempting to dive in. You can see all the salt encrusted on the shore and our driver climbed the cliff to bring us rocks of it. Not sure what I'll do with it, but I guess you pay top dollar for things like that! Next we passed through Wadi Mujib which used to be the border between Moab and Ammon. This area boasts a great nature reserve but we could see but just one gorge from the road.

By lunchtime we were back in Amman and took a quick drive around the very wealthy southern suburbs of the city. You could be in any wealthy suburb in the world here, and they really do have some money to play with. The houses are ENORMOUS! The American Embassy is also in this area and the security is out of this world. I like how they have this massive US flag, but it's descreetly tucked away between two buildings, not right out in your face. That's not like them!! ;-) It was at half mast today, so I'm not sure who's died. Probably all those birds and fish from the oil spill courtesy of BP. Seriously BP and US Government. Must try harder!!!!!!!

After lunch it was onto Jebel al-Qala'a (the citadel). There has been a fortress and market place on this site for thousands of years. It's the highest of the seven hills of Amman and hence provides superb views of the whole city. The ruins that remain today include those of a Roman temple believed to be for Hercules. There is also the Umayyad Palace with its reconstructed entrance hall and huge cistern. The museum that features is small but fabulous, being crammed full of 100s of artefacts, including some of the original Dead Sea Scrolls (the others being in Israel). The ones in Jordan are written on leather and copper and were found just up the road at Quamran. Amazing. Oh, and you'll be glad to know that the whole complex was spick and span. Not a black plastic bag in sight!

Next the huge Roman Theatre was in sight. In its heyday it seated 6000 and you can almost feel all those ancient eyes staring down at you as you stand on the stage. The folk museum here is also well put together. Trivia for the day…..during Roman times, Amman was called Philadelphia.

It was then hotel "admin" and food time.

XXX

Yallah, yallah, yallah, jamal!!

Slept outside again last night (same as last night). It's so still and pleasantly warm with a huge full moon watching over. It feels like you're in a big dome, a bit like The Truman Show.

I'm not a crazy breakfast person unless it's a green juice or fruit, but the breakfasts in the Wadi are great……thyme duka, hummus, oil, hava and egg. Everyone was getting a jeep back to Rum Village, but I HAD TO have another go on a camel. I rode it all by myself this time and even got a few trots out of it! I think I may give up the horses and take up camels. I love them. They're really even tempered and fun to deal with. So with a camel under me, my guide singing arabic songs in hushed tones behind and the Wadi Rum spread out all around, I was in heaven.

Next it was off to Aqaba, passing through very arid, treeless, hilly terrain. We also passed a big truck depot with lots of oil tankers from Saudi and Iraq. Aqaba is a pleasant little seaside town in a somewhat unusual location. It's on the northern point of The Red Sea and shares the scrap of shoreline with Israel and Jordan. Eilat in Israel is so close that it almost merges into Aqaba. Taba in Egypt isn't too far around from that, its buildings clearly visible. If you go the other way, you'll run into the Saudi border just 20km up the road. Aqaba is the most important city in the south of Jordan and is really being groomed for the tourists. Although I think it might have a little way to go to attract your run-of-the-mill tourist, there are some very big and expensive hotels going up including The Saraya, which is costing a cool USD2.5B (yes...that's a "B", not an "M"!) Aqaba's history includes a showing from King Solomon who supposedly put a navy together here. Today there are some not so attractive ports with massive container ships from as far away as Panama.

We jumped on a little glass bottom boat to have a look at some coral. It was a little tedious but there were a few interesting things like coral that looked like lavender and some that even looked like brains. A few tyres, drink cans and even a yogurt container could also be viewed. Jordan's rubbish issue doesn't seem to end at the coastline. There was also a big old container that was basically an artificial reef and also an old tank which King Abdullah had pushed into the sea (I don't know why either). Weird to see something like that at the bottom go the sea though. I think I may introduce a Clean Up Jordan Day....or even the concept of an "eco-friendly shopping bag". Where's Ian Kiernan when you need him? (That's the question of the day, btw). I think a lot of the littering comes down to arrogance. That and laziness, just watching the attitude of some people as they just toss a plastic water bottle into the street though surrounded by bins. You know, that insecurity that says, "Look at me! I'm so big and tough, I can litter!" Weirdos. Anyway...back to the story.......I jumped in for a swim but it only really lasted 5 minutes. Having seen all the weird creatures, coral and other things in there, it was really just to jump in and say I'd swum in the Red Sea, quickly before a shark came and took me away!!

The afternoon was spent wandering around the town, which really seems to be divided between poor and not so poor. Stalls sell everything from nuts to cheap but obviously mass produced (from the number that are around!) valour, man-made fibre blankets. Mmmmmm. You can also get McDonalds, Burger King, KFC and Popyes. Oh dear. The fruit and vegetable souk left a little to be desired, but at least I could get a few bits. I also had a fruit smoothie. Why is it that Jordanians can't leave good food well alone? They have to ruin it with some sort of pollutant, usually of the sugar variety. What could have been a great drink made with fresh fruit then has sickly man-made strawberry syrup poured all down the inside edges. I had to quickly drink it before it mixed in with the drink!! I went into a perfume shop to get directions. They had all the "best" brands such as Lecosta, XY by Hogo Boss, Ioop! and Frerari (whose symbol was a black horse with just one foot off the ground instead of two!). I was about to walk out when I thought he was going to inject me with some big syringe full of sent. Next thing I was completely sprayed with the vile stuff! Coughing and with eyes burning from the "pepper spray" equivalent, I left with my deepest thanks. If nothing else, there's a brilliant bookshop! In there I met an American couple who had been living in Petra for the last three years. They actually live in Marguerite's village and know her. They're begrudgingly moving back Stateside though as their daughter is university age. It was interesting to talk to them about their experiences here. After about a 3hr wander in 42C heat, it was back to the hotel to do some "admin".

XXX

Allah's Garden

Why are people so scared of silence? Why does every second have to be filled with idle monkey chit chat? Wadi Rum is amazing and there are very few places left in the world that are this vast and silent. At least when you spend most of your time in a city, time spent in places like Wadi Rum are a rare and precious gift. So why is it so hard for some folk to just be and enjoy the moment and nature at its grandest? That can be the question of the day. There's a great quote (though I can'y remember who wrote it) about the Sahara being Allah's Garden as it is the only place he can come to to get away from it all. I think the same could apply to this place.

Anyway……today was spent exploring this wonderful desert area. My early disappointment of not being able to ride a horse all day today (nothing like telling your guide days in advance and still not having anything organised!!) or a camel (a bit to expensive) was short lived (I think a dummy spit of about 2 minutes isn't bad at all!). It's just great to be here. Every corner turned introduces a new rock formation and colour. There are jebels (mountains) which seem covered in petrified waterfalls or that runny icing was poured over them and set as it dribbled over. Some have sharp and sheer cliff faces, some are soft and rounded whilst others are cut deep with gorges. We first walked from our "camp" to El Qattar to see a spring. It's always inspiring to see trees and plants thrive in such a harsh landscape. Where there is water, little micro ecosystems develop. As one in our group said, "Plants want to grow", and they really do here, forcing their way through the hardest of rock with no visible soil. Good thing to keep in mind when I start my veggie garden! Next it was a short drive over to Khazali (which means something along the lines of "Suicide Ali"). A bloke called Ali killed someone and the whole tribe wanted him dead. So he ran away up the mountain, as you do. They came after him so he jumped off the cliff. Miraculously he survived so obviously having God on his side, the tribe let him live and named the mountain after him. There is a great gorge in the mountain with 7th century (supposedly) rock carvings on the wall. There's also a very un-temporary looking bedouin tent selling souvenirs….and if you wait a while, jeep loads of Japanese tourists!!! To be fair, this was really the only spot we encountered more than a couple of people though, but last time we saw not a soul except maybe the odd shepherd. Lawrence's House was next. There just remains one wall but it's great to see where he lived and his view….which is nothing to complain about! He supposedly stayed here during the desert revolt. Next it was onto the obligatory sand dune climb. Only a couple of us did it. The sand was soooo scorching by this time. Makes you run up faster as your shoes fill up with sand and get slow cooked. Few things compare with the joy of running up and down (in huge, giant steps!) a dune. Small minds, perhaps?! :-) Next it was on to Anfashieh for some more rock art and then lunch at Siq Burrah. This was a lovely spot but if I knew we were going to be sitting there for over two hours, I would have taken my book! Hummus and tinned tuna for lunch along with sage tea. The locals think we're completely bonkers wanting them to make the tea with no sugar in it, especially when they have about 3-4 spoonfuls per cup themselves!

The afternoon saw us visit the rock arch at Burdah and then another at Um Fruth. The latter is climbable, though if I hadn't seen others clamber up the sheer face, I would have had my doubts. It was worth a go and I'm happy to report that both Norbert and I successfully made it there and back. Norbert is a bit stinky by now having been sprayed by the bus driver's aftershave yesterday, and today our driver Suliman decided to do the same with his special aftershave bought for him by his cousin from Saudi Arabia. I really do think Norbert will be having a wash tonight!!

The "Wilderness Zone" was next and I remember this section of mostly white sand well, having watched it all pass slowly by on the back of a horse last time. Back to the camp by about 17:00. Time to give Norbert a bath, have a shower and watch another magic sunset before dinner and bed. Tonight I was told I should sleep with my head at the other end of the mattress. Why? Well, it's always best to have your head facing Mecca in case you die in your sleep!

XXX